The Best Overview of London Collections: Men autumn/winter 2013

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All the action from the first round of menswear shows as they happen.

HACKETT’S COLOUR HEROES
To the Crypt at St Paul’s Cathedral – which, when filled with a few hundred fashion bods, isn’t as cold as you might think. Here Hackett opened with typical looks for the perfect English gent: grey three-piece suits with pocket squares, silk scarves and bowler for accessories.

This then evolved into a still formal but delightful array of dressing solutions for men: delicious colour combinations of burnt orange and mustard with navy; moss green with claret, in the way of thick, shawl-collared cardigans with chunky, stripy scarves tucked in to ward off the chill. We’re not sure many will go for the tartan ponch, but the baby blue rollneck paired with a textured charcoal suit was a nice touch.

All photos: Vladimir Potop
Suave gents out there should take note of the burgundy velvet trousers with a black, polka-dot blazer for when work turns to play. Oh, and Erin O’Connor, resplendent in an unbuttoned dress shirt, closed the show. Olivia Bergin, Fashion.telegraph.co.uk deputy editor

INTRODUCING HUNTER GATHER
“Affordable luxury for the modern man” is how David Bradshaw classifies his new label, Hunter Gather. But his ‘modern man’ is one interested in projecting that he is part of an extended work of art.
The whole project (Hunter Gather is a self-styled “posse” of architects, photographers and writers as well as the design team) is very consciously ‘artistic’ – I almost caused a revolt attempting to sit in a chair. Said chair was part of ‘it’ and not just a normal chair; luckily, this push towards the extraordinary serves the clothes well. While many are recognisable staples, zips have become a statement and pocket handkerchiefs a new addition to the power dressing arsenal.

In the basement an impressive installation had models roaming in large cages (see above). If you hadn’t got this already, the emphasis was that the pieces on display set the wearer apart. Ultimately, you have to choose (with some hefty price tags) whether you literally want to buy into this. Alicia Luba

FAR OUT AT FASHION EAST
Dogs are clearly a key accessory for autumn/winter ’13 (as seen at MAN earlier today), but Joseph Turvey at Fashion East wins Best in Show with his Dalmatians, whose spots made it into his collection, too. Elsewhere, Kit Neale went with colour and a PVC onesie; Nasir Mazhar favoured scary masks and Maarten van der Horst stuck with monochrome. Props to Bobbly Abley, though, whose spaceman-themed collection featured a model in an actual flying saucer. Nick Barron

MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF’S ‘LES MIS’ MOMENT

Photos: Vladimir Potop
According to the invitation, ‘pillage’ was the theme for Meadham Kirchhoff’s collection and, between the heat and the scuffling crowds, the SW1 show space did have an element of ‘war zone’ to it. The models – decked out mainly in monochrome separates, including several black PVC pieces – sat motionless amongst piles of bin bags and broken wood. It was all a bit ‘Les Mis’, albeit with a heavy gothic streak. Nick Barron

HENTSCH MAN MEN AND HOT CHOCOLATES

At Hentsch Man it was the models, not the clothes that made an initial impact. Quirky and diverse, the select trio (ticking all the ‘quirky’ boxes with piercings, tattooed eyelids and facial hair) made an immediate statement. The choco-mallow brew we were then handed was as a PR masterstroke: juggling the steaming cups, the brandishing of iPhones had to wait as we were forced to digest the self-consciously individual personality of this label. The models seamlessly embodied the edited collection we then shuffled through to view: understated, cool, with the urban softened by knits and prints.
Hentsch Man is Californian in origin but something about this collection felt quintessentially British. Despite the odd pop of a coloured trouser (burnt oranges and mustard colours were a favourite) designers Alexis and Max showcased muted greys and monochrome geometrics. Alicia Luba, Fashion.Telegraph.co.uk intern

MR. START’S EFFORTLESS SIMPLICITY

Photos: Getty
Perhaps the most prominent emerging trend from day one of London Collections: Men is simplicity, and this season Shoreditch boutique Mr Start was bang on trend. The front rowers were immaculately suited and booted – none of that novelty ‘rif-raff’ here – and the models were very much a reflection of this.
Moving away from the classic tailoring that the brand excels at, Mr Start showed more than just good suiting. Highlights were heavy belted coats in the finest speckled wool and paper thin, yet beautiful, knits coming in every autumnal colour conceivable; oxblood, evergreen, navy and camel to name but a few. Mr Start did not totally abandon its tailoring background, but merely updated it with a moleskin suit in dark olive, a single-breasted two piece in a Prince of Wales check and beautifully cut dinner jacket in midnight blue shot taffeta. With a hint of European chic, Mr Start gets a thumbs up from us. Sophie Warburton, stylist and co-ordinator

BASSET HOUNDS: THE A/W ’13 MUST-HAVE ACCESSORY

Agi & Sam chose Beethoven and Blur for their A/W’13 MAN-sponsored show tunes, perfect for the aristocrat-meets-farmer male their collection symbolises. Think tweed, neat puffa gilets, brogues with bright rubber Wellington boot casing, vibrant yellow flat caps and micro patterned silky suits. Accessories-wise, Agi & Sam fans will need ginger hair, stuck-on sideburns, gentlemanly umbrellas and a basset hound or two to channel the show looks. Oh, and as the Fashion East show also saw Father Christmas (an older, white haired model) walk the runway, the eclectic collection is suitable for all age ranges. Alice Newbold, Fashion.Telegraph.co.uk contributor


MAN show higlights and a look by Craig Green (top right). Photos: Getty

FRESH PRINCE ACTION AT ASTRID ANDERSEN

Astrid Andersen is living the dream for the new wave of male hipsters enthusiastic about old school sportswear. Making the sports aesthetic more about vanity than agility, her A/W ’13 MAN-sponsored collection offers up lavender, black and gold for its colour palette, with a sovereign ring print for its jersey basics. The designer’s name filtered down many a smart trackie bottom leg in block baseball font, with Fila trainers keeping her designs company. Models toted a metallic green lower lip to show this sportswear wouldn’t be getting sweaty anytime soon. Alice Newbold, Fashion.Telegraph.co.uk contributor

YOU GUYS

STARS IN THEIR EYES
Ronnie Wood and his new belle Sally Humphreys showed a public display of affection at Topman; see which other stars have been gracing the shows here

Photo: Reuters

LEE ROACH

Photos: Getty
Lee Roach isn’t known for his flamboyant style and this season’s showing was no different. Minimalism doesn’t quite stretch as far as Roach’s paired back aesthetic. Structured lapel-less jackets varied in length, paired with seemingly uniform tailored trousers in either black, navy or white. Seamless wool blazers gradually turned into ‘single-puff’ puffa jackets, still with tailored trousers and Chelsea boots.
Reflective, glittery tabs were slowly introduced on trouser legs and jacket sleeves while parachute style fastenings remained as standard. Roach’s no-frills approach to industrial techno tailoring left nowhere to hide, and luckily for him, nowhere was needed. Sophie Warburton, stylist and co-ordinator

WHAT’S UNDER GANDY’S HAT?

Photo: Getty
After a hatless morning, this blog’s favourite favourite subject – David Gandy, of course – suddenly slipped on a fedora for the Lou Dalton show. Indoor hat-wearing? What’s all that about? Plus we hear from our Fulham spy that Gandy wears a flatcap inside his local pub too. At the Topman Design show (where that hat was still firmly on) we asked if the pub tip was on the money. “Absolutely,” he said: “and I’ve got a cap for tonight. It’s because I’ve got outrageously uncontrollable hair and now that people recognise me when I go out, if I can’t be bothered to do it [tame his hair] it’s cap on or hat on, a big chunky knit, and I’m good to go.” So there you are. Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor.

TOPMAN’S TRAVELS

Photo: Reuters
For AW13 Topman Designs took us on an adventure; a sartorial expedition if you will, which began with cropped jackets and out sized parkas in putty and sand, paired with loose cargo pants tucked into hiking boots. We then romped through to boiled roll-neck knits in spicy orange and fuschia and belted intarsia cardigans accessorised with shrunken beanies, hip-flasks and leather i-pad holders – the definitive kit for an urban explorer. This classic look was modernised by way of spangly lurex knits and metallic accents on upscaled backpacks and boots.

Our adventure concluded with ultra-slick tailored trouser suits in rich claret and navy, which were no doubt a favourite amongst dapper front rowers Tiny Tempah, David Gandy and Ronnie Wood. Frankie Graddon, fashion assistant, Stella Magazine. Photos: Vladimir Potop

VIV GIVES US A PEAK

Ahead of her Harrod’s showcase tomorrow, Dame Vivienne Westwood has posted some sketches of her MAN collection on Twitter. Expect bomber jackets of yellow dogstooth and slouchy pants with fitted ankles, if these little drawings are anything to go by. Photo: @FollowWestwood

CAMPING OUT WITH BALLY

Over to Bedford Square for Bally, where we hoovered up bacon sarnies and sipped warming tea while huddling with Benedict Cumberbatch, Dominic Cooper and Mark Foster in a, er, camper’s tent. Bally’s base camp set-up wasn’t completely random, though: it shod Tenzing Norgay in reindeer boots for his history-making climb with Sir Edmund Hillary to the peak of Everest in 1953. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of that link-up, those boots have been reissued, along with other snow boots in various skins (the apres-ski crowd have been begging Bally’s store in San Moritz for marmot – wish granted), weekend bags, and cosy hats and gloves for its slick Everest capsule collection. Which, given the Baltic temperatures this morning, wouldn’t have gone amiss on the frost-bitten crowd. Phong Luu, Commissioning style editor

A FIRST CLASS FROW

Perennial best dressers Tinie Tempeh and David Gandy kept Topman’s front row warm along with rocker Ronnie Wood. Photo: @BritishGQ

ALL HAIL THE NEW MANKLE?

Could the jazzy ankle sock replace the mankle trend seen out and about at June’s London Collections: Men? If this chap – snapped at 11am on Day 1 – is anything to go by, the (sock) forecast is set to be patterned and pulled up tight. We’re not sure what’s under his friend’s baggy-legged fluro pink get-up, though. Photo: stylebarron
10 things to look out for at London Collections: Men

SAY HELLO TO YOUR NEW CHRISTMAS JUMPER

We may have only just boxed up the decorations and, for the faux fir fans among us, the tree for another year, but gentlemen, I have already located your Christmas jumper of 2013. Look no further than knitwear stalwart, John Smedley, who this morning served up a gorgeous winter wardrobe featuring festive knits in red, green and blue. For those wanting in on the ‘meggings’ (male leggings) trend, Smedley has catered for you too; but best of all was an entire rail dedicated to light grey cashmere sweaters, cardigans and scarves (and a pair of said meggings we’ll overlook). As knitwear staples go, this is surely not to be beaten. Nick Barron

VICKY P POPS UP

That’ll be Victoria Pendleton, indulging her passion for fashion at the Lou Dalton show. The gold medal-winning Olympic cyclist has previously moaned about her training schedule blighting her front row opportunities, so she’s making up for it now. Photo: Getty

ORLEBAR BROWN’S MIAMI VACATION

Orlebar Brown made promises of Miami sunshine on a gloomy Monday morning – an idea much welcomed by Team Telegraph . A solid showing of Orlebar Brown’s staples dominated; photo-printed swimming trunks, terry towling shirts and linen shirts, but there was little new. The label’s first foray into outerwear and ‘eveningwear’ was very much wearwearable and well constructed. Kitsch prints and paintbox brights added a fun factor to the otherwise slow and steady collection. If there was a wee lack of punch, Orlebar’s collection will be commercially viable, and will no doubt be successful. Sophie Warburton, stylist and co-ordinator

DAPPER LADS AT LOU DALTON

Photo: Mitchell Sams

BELSTAFF BEGINS THE FASHION RACE

Read the Daily Telegraph’s Deputy Fashion Editor’s review of Belstaff’s new motor racing-inspired collection here

GANDY GETS THE PARTY STARTED

To Harvey Nichols, where on Sunday night the retailer held a party in honour of Paula Gerbase and her new label 1205. GQ editor Dylan Jones was in attendance (far left), as was blogger Susie Bubble and our favourite bit of eye Gandy, Mr David Gandy himself (centre). Kindness provided the tunes, modelling the 1205 autumn/winter ’13 collection, while Gandy and Co. feasted on pheasant popcorn and cocktails of warm apple, ginger and vodka. Photos: Getty

BICESTER VILLAGE OPENS MENSWEAR BOUTIQUE

Bicester Village are saluting the growing importance of men’s fashion with the launch of the first British Designers Collective Menswear boutique, today. Stocking hot new talent to established Savile Row tailors, the shop will house designs by Jonathan Saunders, Margaret Howell and YMC, to name a few. “This is the perfect time to launch a dedicated retail platform for men’s fashion,” notes British Fashion Council chairman, Harold Tillman CBE, on the conjunction between Bicester and the BFC. Male fashionistas, get saving! Photos: Philip Hollis

ROMEO’S CAMEO?

A rumour has started that the new, 10-year-old face of Burberry, Romeo Beckham, will be at the brand’s in-store breakfast event on Tuesday, January 8. The heritage label declined to comment, but having been spotted watching West Ham versus Man United at the weekend, the diminutive Beckham is in the capital and who knows, may well be available for personal appearances… watch this space. Picture: Mario Testino

IT’S A NO-SHOW FOR SPENCER HART

Spencer Hart has unfortunately had to cancel their upcoming London Collections: Men show, which was scheduled to take place on today at 5.30pm. Production problems have meant that the Savile Row tailoring house doesn’t have a full collection of samples to present to the press, so the show, sadly, cannot go ahead. The suave label stole the show at last June’s London Collections with a catwalk show featuring a whisky-swigging, cigar-smoking Benedict Cumberbatch swathed in a cashmere dressing gown, much to the delight of ‘Cumberbitches’ worldwide.

SHOWING TONIGHT: PRETTY GREEN

Newcomer to the LC: M line up, Liam Gallagher, will showcase his brand’s latest offerings via a cinematic presentation at Mayfair’s The Arts Club tonight at 9.30pm. But how will the fashion pack – whom the former Oasis frontman deemed 90 per cent idiots – rate Liam’s self prophesised “party with attitude reflecting the brand’s fusion of music and fashion”? Tune into the blog to find out. Photo: Boo George

WE’VE GOT A CINEMA DATE WITH DAVID GANDY (SORT OF…)

Man model of the moment David Gandy will host a private screening of our favourite fashion farce Zoolander during London Collections: Men. We know what you’re thinking: err, why? Well, it’s all to do with the brand new partnership between Red Nose Day and the world of fashion, both of which Gandy is a staunch supporter.
Before the screening – which, before you get too excited, is by invitation only – he’ll host an intimate reception for press to highlight Red Nose Day and the fashion world’s collaborative plans.
We also think this piece of news gives us grounds to start the rumour that David Gandy will indeed be appearing in Zoolander 2 , which is scheduled for release next year. Go on David, give us your best Blue Steel. Photo: Leo Cackett/Courtesy of Men’s Health

LOUIS SMITH’S PASSION FOR FASHION

“I have a lot of clothes in my head that I’d like to wear, but that I don’t see out there; so I’m really interested about trying to get into fashion and perhaps starting my own range” revealed Smith just days before LC:M kicked off. Signed up by the London College of Fashion to join the debate on men’s style, it sounds like we could have an Olympian-turned-designer on our hands

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